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Equipment reviews

Protective Gear & Water Damage Prevention Equipment

The cheapest equipment on the site sits in this cluster, and it prevents the most expensive losses. Sewage PPE is the exception — that one is about not taking a health risk home with you.

4 buying guides in this cluster

Quick answer

Two jobs sit here. Protection means Category 3 water needs an N95 or better, nitrile gloves, eye protection and fully waterproof rubber boots, and anything porous that touches sewage is disposed of rather than cleaned. Prevention means the cheap hardware that stops the next loss: a heavier-mil vapor barrier over crawl space soil to end ground moisture, and foam sleeves plus a thermostatic heat cable on pipes in unheated spaces, because insulation only slows heat loss and does not add heat.

Buying guides in Protection & Prevention

Frequently Asked Questions

What PPE do I need for sewage cleanup?

At minimum an N95 respirator, nitrile gloves, eye protection and fully waterproof rubber boots. Category 3 water carries faecal bacteria, so the requirement is a barrier that can be disinfected afterwards — treated leather is not one, and fabric linings cannot be decontaminated.

Anything porous that contacts sewage, including footwear, is disposed of rather than cleaned. For larger jobs add a disposable coverall.

What mil vapor barrier should a crawl space have?

6-mil satisfies many codes but tears during installation and on every future crawl, 10–12 mil is the practical choice for a barrier anyone will access, and 20-mil reinforced is encapsulation grade.

The rule of thumb is simple: if a person will ever crawl on it, use 12-mil or heavier. The liner's job is to stop soil evaporation, which is the largest moisture source in most homes with a crawl space.

Does pipe insulation stop pipes freezing?

It delays freezing, it does not prevent it. Insulation slows heat loss but adds no heat, so a pipe in a genuinely unheated space will still freeze given a long enough cold spell.

Foam sleeves are worth fitting everywhere as cheap insurance, and for pipes in unheated crawl spaces, garages or exterior walls, pair them with a thermostatic heat cable that switches on as temperatures approach freezing.

What is the cheapest thing I can do to prevent water damage?

A water alarm at the water heater, for around $12. Water heaters are the most common indoor flood source and they usually fail gradually before they fail completely, so an alarm at the base buys hours or days of warning.

After that: foam sleeves on exposed pipes, gutters discharging away from the foundation, and knowing where your main shutoff valve is before you need it.

Who do I call right now for water damage?

Call (888) 840-6512. The line is answered 24 hours a day, seven days a week, and connects you with an IICRC-certified water damage restoration company that serves your area. Describe what you can see — where the water is coming from, how long it has been there, and whether it smells — the more specific you are, the faster the right company is on the line.

If the source is a pipe or an appliance, shut the main water valve first. Have four things ready and the call goes quickly: the address, when the water started, what is wet now, and whether you have filed an insurance claim.

Still not sure which of these is your situation? (888) 840-6512 · toll-free · answered 24/7

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